The most anxiously-awaited restaurant opening in Pleasanton in the last couple of years, at least for me, was Agora Bistro,
which took over the former Bert’s Hofbrau and Steakhouse space at 443
Main Street in late December. I was in Nebraska for Xmas and New Year’s
and missed the opening, but made it there as soon as I could.
It was well worth the wait. I’d poked my head in a couple of times
during remodeling, hoping for a firm opening date, and asking about the
menu. I finally got a look inside the other day, and came back for
dinner.
The high-ceilinged brick front room remains the same, as does the
glassed-in “greenhouse” back room (which is one of the nicest places in
town to eat at sunset). The new owners have warmed the place up some,
and the former bar/hofbrau counter in the front room is now an open
kitchen, and the bar has been moved to the back.
The menu covers the classics of Greek and Turkish cuisine, with a
selection of hot and cold appetizers — including baked prawns as well as
the expected spreads like tzatziki, hummus, and baba ghanoush, as well as spanakopita, feta with olives, and dolmades. Entrees include souvlaki, moussaka, pastitsia, lamb chops, and beef short ribs.
I started with mucver, a Turkish dish of zucchini and dill pancakes with yogurt and cucumber sauce, which was delicious. For a main course, I had kofte,
which were wonderfully-seasoned beef and lamb patties cooked on the
grill, with rice pilaf and a small chopped salad of tomatoes, onion,
parsley, and red cabbage in a Mediterranean vinaigrette. The kofte were
tender and flavorful and were served with their natural grill juices.
With the main course I had a glass of Greek red table wine from
Tsantali. Dessert was Turkish-style baklava, lighter and less
overwhelmingly sweet than other versions I’ve had, and I enjoyed it with
a cup of strong — but decaffeinated — espresso. (Turkish coffee is
also available.)
Service was crisp, polite, and efficient. By mid-dinner all 10 tables
in the back room where I was seated were full, and the room, which had
often seemed cold and dark at night in previous restaurant incarnations
because of the expanses of glass, felt warm and inviting, and the people
at the next table were conversing with their neighbors. There was a
discussion of the difference between Ouzo and Sambuca (alas, Agora at
present only has a beer and wine license so the question was moot). As I
left I noticed all but two of the 12 tables in the front room were also
occupied, and there were several parties waiting at the door.
Agora Bistro looks like a big hit and is a very welcome addition to Main Street.
Diablo Review: This
brick-and-wood-beam Greek and Mediterranean bistro, tucked along Main
Street, is one of the coziest spots in Pleasanton for a romantic meal.
Service is European-style, serious, and informed, and food is prepared
to showcase its natural flavor. Fried calamari are dipped in a light,
airy batter and served with a nongreasy lemon aioli, both of which
complement the fish, rather than overwhelm it like most pub versions.
The marinades for the lamb and chicken souvlaki bring out the best
flavors of the meat and poultry. Both dishes are served with nutty rice
pilaf. Guvec, a baked vegetable casserole sprinkled with feta, combines
olive oil, eggplant, zucchini, and peppers into a magical blend from the
garden. Baklava and creamy, Marsala-spiked zabaglione are superb. Lunch
and dinner daily.
